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By the way, if you want to get really accurate you can even measure your cymbal bell!
Vintage cymbals, Zildjians included, often weighed less than newer cymbals so drummers often give weights in grams (g) as a clue to when they were made.
If you're lucky enough to find photos of your cymbal model all you have to do is compare your cymbal to the photo right?! Here's a list of the things that make up a cymbal, focusing on vintage Zildjians. It might not be totally complete but it's a good starting point if you're totally lost in drum forums full of drum nerd talk.
If you learn with your eyes don't worry, I'll have a gallery after the list with examples.
What they know is usually based on the biggest marks on the cymbal: the cymbal stamp and cymbal manufacturer logo (if it's not rubbed off).
Drummers almost always start with the cymbal stamp since it doesn't rub off.
This is the pattern of rings that go from the cymbal's outer edge in to the centerhole or bell.
More often, you end up lost in a thread with a mix of helpful posts, and some posts that have nothing to do with your cymbal.
Again, this one's easier for new cymbals — it's a fancy way of asking if it's shiny (brilliant), normal (natural), or does it look like it just came out of a cave (raw)?
Zildjian first advertised brilliant finish cymbals in their catalog in 1970.
Manufacturer sizes aren't exact, a 20˝ cymbal can actually be slightly larger or smaller than 20˝.
Fun fact: Zildjian As were made in huge sizes of 24˝ and 26˝ as far back as 1948!